One Day in Palermo Sicily: A Tried & Tested Itinerary for Day Trips & Cruise Excursions

Palermo is a busy city that is easy to misunderstand if you’ve not been here before. Beyond the main roads, smaller streets merge with open air markets and while the major sites are all within walking distance of each other, they are not right next to each like in some other major Italian cities.

Couple this with the city’s multi-layered history fusing European, African and Middle Eastern cultures, Palermo (and Sicily as a whole) has a distinctly different feel from mainland Italy and Sardinia. This cultural cocktail and the non-stop energy of Palermo are the reasons I love this city, and encourage anyone who can visit to do so, even just for a day.

Following my years of visiting the Sicilian capital I have put together an easy to follow one day itinerary for those looking to enjoy the best of what the city has to offer – in this guide you’ll find the following:

• Key things to know about visiting Palermo
• Arrival in Palermo
• A morning in Palermo
• Lunch in Palermo
• An afternoon in Palermo
• Aperitivo in Palermo
• Dinner in Palermo
• Bonus: Staying in Palermo

Before starting our day in Palermo here are two quick notes based on my years of visiting this city that all visitors should consider:

Palermo is one of the hottest and driest cities in Italy, which can make visits during the peak summer months uncomfortable for those who are not used to higher temperatures. I’d recommend always having water with you as you visit the city, as well as snacks to stay hydrated and keep energy levels up. Of course, you’ll never be far from a bar, café, or shop where you can grab something, but in my experience, carrying a small bottle and some sugary treats is never a bad idea in Palermo.

I am asked this question a lot, and the short answer is “Yes“. Palermo has a reputation for being a little “on the edge” for tourists, which is deeply tied to the city’s past history surrounding organised crime, much like Naples.

However, just like Naples and almost most other parts of mainland Italy, the city is far from unsafe, and in fact, it is widely considered as one of the safest cities in the country to visit today.

Take a look at the statistics here – you’ll see that Palermo doesn’t even rank in the top 10 cities for crime within Italy, with Rome, Florence and other more popular locations appearing according to most recent data.

Fundamentally the chance of something bad happening is very low, but like any major city, common sense applies when visiting Palermo. By taking basic precautions like not leaving valuables accessible to pickpockets or items loose on tables when dining, you’re almost guaranteed to have a stress free trip.

For the purpose of this guide to visiting Palermo in one day, I will first share how to arrive at our starting point: the famous Quattro Canti crossroads (commonly referred to in English as ‘the four corners’) in the heart of the city.

If you are already in Palermo or have already organised your travel into the city centre, click here to jump past this section, diving straight into our itinerary.

For first-time visitors and those looking to understand how to get to the Quattro Canti, here is what you need to know about arriving in Palermo:

The city’s main train station is located just 1 kilometre from the historic centre of Palermo, which makes walking to the Quattro Canti very easy. The most direct route is to exit the train station, bear left, and head straight along Via Maqueda, one of central Palermo’s main streets. You’ll arrive at the Quattro Canti intersection in around 15 minutes.

Alternatively, grab a taxi from outside the station entrance/exit which will take around 5 minutes and cost between €10–€15.

If you’re making a self-guided shore excursion from the Palermo cruise terminal there’s a chance your cruise operator will drop you off right in the city centre. If this is not the case or if you would like to get from the port independently the quickest way is to grab a taxi from the ranks close to the disembarkation points. The journey time is around 10 minutes on average, with a cost of around 15€/20€.

Alternatively, walking to the Quattro Canti from the port is straightforward. The most direct route is to first walk along Via Principe di Belmonte, and then follow Via Ruggiero Settimo on to Via Maqueda. The total journey time on foot is around 20-25 minutes on foot.

If you are flying into Palermo with a view to visiting the city before a connecting flight or onwards travel within Sicily the fastest route into the historic centre is by taxi. Taxis to and from Palermo airport operate on a fixed price of 50€ one-way, with an average journey time of 45 minutes.

If you have a little more time or would like to save some money for shopping and indulging in the Sicilian capital you’ll find a reliable train service connecting the airport with Palermo Centrale train station. These trains run from early in the morning until late at night, with an average of 1 or 2 per hour. The journey takes around an hour, and on arrival at Palermo Centrale, it’s a case of following the walking directions set out previously to reach the Quattro Canti.

As the capital of Sicily, Palermo is a major hub for road connections. The city is linked to the rest of the island by the E90 autostrada (motorway/freeway), which circles the city around 5 kilometres from the historic centre.

Note that the city features a strict ZTL (Zona Traffico Limitato), or Limited Traffic Zone. Within this area, only residents, registered taxis, delivery vehicles, and emergency services are permitted to drive. For a detailed map of the limited zone and the most up to date hours and other rules, refer to the official site here.

Therefore, if you are utilising a car hire to get to Palermo for your day trip, park at Parcheggio Stazione FS (the official car park for Palermo Centrale train station) and walk approximately 20 minutes to the Quattro Canti, or take a taxi. This avoids the stress of driving in the congested old city and eliminates the risk of heavy fines for contravening the ZTL.

Let’s begin our day in Palermo by taking a moment to appreciate our start point at Quattro Canti. This unique architectural crossroads that dates back to the early 17th century. Constructed between 1608 and 1620, it now beautifully divides the four quarters of the old town (a UNESCO World Heritage site), sittings at the heart of Palermo’s historic centre.

If you’ve not yet had breakfast, or need a little pick-me-up before jumping into our walking itinerary, dip into Morettino Caffè Palermo. Believe me when I say you won’t find better coffee in Sicily! In fact, Sara and I love this coffee so much that we order beans from Morettino to enjoy at home in Rome.

Depending on what time you’ve arrived in the city, there are two key main sights to potentially see during your morning. If you’ve arrived early (before 10:00 AM), visiting both before lunch is very achievable. Whereas if you’ve arrived after 10:00 AM, I’d recommend focusing your time on just one.

Here’s a quick overview of both (you can click the links below to jump ahead based on which appeals most to you):

This is Palermo’s main church, showcasing the ultimate example of Sicilian-Norman architecture in western Sicily, and serves as the final resting place of some of Sicily’s most famous kings. For me, the personal highlight is going up to the roof terrace to enjoy completely unrivalled views of Palermo’s skyline, the sea, and the mountains beyond -more about this here:

This sprawling palace was inaugurated in 1130 by the ruling Normans of Sicily and is now one of the oldest royal residences in Europe. The palace remained in use across the centuries by subsequent rulers of Sicily, meaning the inside is incredibly well preserved for a near 1,000 year old landmark.

Regardless of which of the above options you start with, you’ll need to walk along Via Vittorio Emanuele to reach both the cathedral and the palace. Take note of the local shops as you stroll, as this is where you can purchase authentic Sicilian ceramics, artisan food, and local wines. We’ll return here at the end of the day which is ideal because not all stores will be fully open during the morning – just take a mental note of what you’d like to buy later on.

The first of our two major sites, the city’s principle church, is located just 500 metres from Quattro Canti (about a 10-minute walk) straight along Via Vittorio Emanuele heading west.

Palermo cathedral was completed in 1184 and showcases a blend of Norman and Arab architecture, built on the site of a former Muslim mosque, making it the ultimate example of the city’s diverse cultural history.

Admission to the main cathedral is free – simply enter via the main entrance doors and begin your visit. On entering, you’ll notice the interior design is a lot “cleaner” than the exterior. While the outside is a spectacular monument to Norman architecture with Moorish flair, the interior was updated much more recently by the standards of Italian history, undergoing a major overhaul between 1781 and 1801 bring it inline with the neoclassical style of the time.

The Duomo roofs are accessed by a series of narrow and sometimes winding staircases, which are not suited to visitors with mobility challenges or any anxieties around small spaces or heights. Unfortunately, there is no elevator up to the rooftop terrace.

Tickets to the terraces of Palermo’s Duomo can only be purchased in person at the official ticket office tucked behind the cathedral on Cortile dei Pellegrini, 3. The same ticket also grants access to the Royal Tombs and treasury, perfect for history lovers wishing to learn more about Palermo’s multi-layered past.

A few steps further along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, just past the lush gardens of Villa Bonanno park beyond the cathedral, you’ll arrive at regal heart of Palermo.

Originally founded by the Emirate of Palermo in the 9th century, the Norman Palace (or Palazzo dei Normanni in Italian) is the oldest royal residence in Europe and houses the Palatine Chapel, known for its show stopping, Byzantine mosaics that completely cover the upper walls.

After marvelling this architectural and artistic masterpiece you can explore the grand royal apartments that still convey the sheer wealth and power of Sicily’s historical rulers.

Entry tickets (which also include access to Palermo’s Botanical Gardens in the grounds of the palace) can be purchased on arrival, via the official website or with an approved third party such as GetYourGuide.

Sicily’s capital is one of the world’s greatest street food locations, so with this in mind, we won’t be stopping for a formal sit-down meal this lunchtime. Following a busy morning of sightseeing head to Mercato Ballarò, Palermo’s oldest and largest market, to experience local life and try authentic Sicilian street food for lunch.

Just a short walk from either the cathedral or the Norman Palace, this market is a busy, borderline chaotic warren of stall-lined streets with passionate street vendors passionately promoting their fresh goods.

In my Italy itineraries I typically recommend at least one specific place for lunch, but in this case I will instead share with you a list of things to be on the look out for in the market.

Sample as many or as few of these as you want, from anywhere you see offering these Sicilian specialities. I’ve never had a bad experience eating in Palermo’s markets. Be on the lookout for these legendary local specialties to eat on the go:

• Arancini (Golden fried rice balls stuffed traditionally with but ragù, but you’ll a myriad of flavours available)
• Sfincione (Thick, spongy Palermitano-style pizza topped with onions and local cheese)
• Panelle (Crispy, savory chickpea fritters served inside a fresh bread roll – my go-to most lunchtimes in Palermo)
• Offal/Tripe (For the adventurous foodies, look out for pani ca meusa, a spleen sandwich)

Building on the themes of our morning and lunch (those of deep history and incredible food) our afternoon walking route takes us next to Piazza Bellini, where these elements combine in my favourite square in the city.

Getting to Piazza Bellini from the Ballaro market takes roughly 10-15 minutes through the historic Albergheria neighbourhood, leading back down to where our day in Palermo first started. Take this opportunity to further peruse the shops along the streets as most should be fully open by this point of the afternoon.

On arrival in Piazza Bellini, you’ll find yourself surrounded by architectural wonders. The choice of where and what to visit is completely yours; both of the options below can be comfortably visited in a couple of hours, or if you’re pressed for time, simply choose whichever sounds more interesting:

This church is famous for its striking Norman architecture juxtapositioned by gleaming, intricate Byzantine mosaics that rival those of the Palatine Chapel, and even those in Ravenna.

As one of city’s most popular sites there is often a queue to get in, but the wait (usually not more than 10 minutes) is more than worth it to see this breathtaking embodiment of Palermo’s varied history.

Entrance tickets can be purchased on arrival and for a small extra cost you can also visit the adjacent church of San Cataldo for further examples of Sicily’s medieval religious architecture.

No trip to Palermo is complete for us without a stop here where Sicily’s baroque history and decadent cuisine collide, all within the walls of a Roman Catholic church and convent.

Beyond the baroque beauty of the church’s interior, the other must-visit element of this complex is the dolceria; a small cafe that specialises in producing Sicily’s famous sweets according to traditional methods. From fresh pastries to filled cannoli, to Palermo’s famous almond paste cookies (matorana), you won’t find better quality treats anywhere in the city.

If you’re visiting Palermo during the warmer months there’s a strong chance that by the late afternoon you’ll be craving something cool and refreshing. With this in mind, let me share one of my absolute top spots to grab a traditional Sicilian granita.

If you’re not familiar with granita, it is a mixture of ice and natural flavouring (typically citrus fruits, berries or nuts) which is blended to form a semi-frozen, almost ice cream like treat. The key difference between granita and gelato however is that granita does not contain dairy, relying on the production process and balance of natural ingredients to create its distinct, almost gritty texture.

Just a few steps from Piazza Bellini you’ll find Casa Stagnitta. Like gelato, granita can easily be enjoyed on the go, but I’d highly recommend sitting down at an outdoor table and ordering it with a fresh brioche bun to have a real break, Palermitano style.

While the tradition of aperitivo is not quite as sacred in Palermo as it is in northern Italian cities like Turin, that doesn’t mean you’ll struggle to find a lively spot to enjoy a refreshing drink after a full day in Palermo. As we approach the end of our day, we’ll return to where we started at the Quattro Canti where two of our favourite spots for aperitivo are found just a few steps from the famous intersection:

I previously recommended this café as a great location to start your day. It is just as good a location to finish your exploration of Palermo, closing out the afternoon with a drink and a spot of people watching along the busy streets.

Located a just a couple of minutes beyond Morettino on Via Maqueda, you’ll find this lively bar offering fairly priced, excellently made cocktails, artisan beers and local wines. Grab a spot outside facing the street to soak up the energy of the Sicilian capital any day of the week.

If aperitivo isn’t your thing, or you find your mind wandering back to a souvenir you spotted in the shops earlier, now is the perfect time for some retail therapy. You’ll find all the stores open along Via Vittorio Emanuele, just in time for you to return to your train, car, or cruise ship… unless you are staying for dinner, speaking of…

If you still have time to spend in Palermo and are wondering where to go, and what to eat for dinner, we’ve got you covered. Regardless of whether you spent your evening shopping or enjoying aperitivo, we don’t need to go far; in fact, my top dinner recommendation in this part of Palermo is a mere 10m from Ruvolo on Via Maqueda (it’s right next door).

Make your way to Timilia, a top-tier pizzeria to enjoy a mouth watering, Neapolitan style pizza crafted with local Sicilian ingredients. Beyond the delicious pizzas, we also love this spot as they offer extensive gluten-free options aside their normal menu, and they have some of the best examples of Sicilian street food classics outside of the famous markets – perfect if you skipped lunch or couldn’t quite try everything.

While seeing Palermo and experiencing the best of what the city has to offer in a single day is very achievable (as hopefully this guide has shown), this is a layered, complex city that can only be truly appreciated if you stay for a minimum of a couple of nights.

By staying overnight you could enjoy a performance at the famous Teatro Massimo (Massimo Theatre, Europe’s largest opera house), more fully enjoy the city’s many incredible restaurants, and partake in a slice of real Sicilian life by grabbing a morning granita and brioche for breakfast while watching the famous markets come alive.

Like any big city, choosing the right area to stay in can be a challenge, but as a starting point, I highly recommend staying somewhere along, or very close to, Via Maqueda or Via Vittorio Emanuele.

You’ll find all types of accommodation in Palermo from simple apartment rentals and no-frills hostels through to business hotels and boutique bed and breakfasts. To elevate a stay in the Sicilian capital, luxury accommodation options in Palermo include Villa Igiea (Rocco Forte), a 5-star hotel known for its Art Nouveau style, sea views and marina access, and Grand Hotel et Des Palmes, located closer to the the city centre ferry port, with large, immaculately decorated rooms.

Staying within Palermo’s centralised heart means you can you can easily explore the city entirely on foot, or easily embark on day trips to nearby locations like Mondello beach or the jaw dropping cathedral at Monreale via train.

Palermo is a big city, and choosing the right things to do on a short trip can be a challenge. Even if you don’t follow this exact itinerary step-by-step, hopefully you’ll make use of my experiences to craft your own perfect one day trip to Palermo Sicily, Have questions about travelling in Sicily? Contact me here.