Published: March 15, 2026
Last updated: April 1, 2026

Milan, Italy’s second largest city and the capital city of the Lombardy region, was one of the last major places in Italy that I properly explored. When I finally gave myself enough time to understand it, I realised that Milan is far more than a business hub or fashion destination. This is an ancient city with deep Roman roots, major artistic treasures, world-class cultural institutions, and a distinct energy that sets it apart from other more-traditionally visited cities in Italy.

wide view of facade of milan cathedral
In my opinion, few places in the world are as striking and captivating as Milan

A complete Milan guide for first-time and returning visitors

For a long time, Milan had eluded me. Much of my travel in this country had focused on the south, the islands, and other cities that are more commonly featured on classic Italy itineraries. Eventually, though, I decided it was time to correct that, and I confidently say I now know Milan well. If you are planning to visit Milan, this guide will help you understand:

Who is this guide for?

This guide has been written with first-time visitors to Milan in mind, but it should also be useful for travellers returning to the city after some time away. All information, recommendations and practical guidance are as current as possible and are based on my own direct experience of exploring Milan, Italy.

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Key facts about Milan, Lombardy

Milan is one of Italy’s country’s most important economic, cultural and transport hubs, and one of the world’s fashion capitals. Here are some key facts about Milan and answers to frequently asked questions, providing some additional insight about the city:

Milan or Milano?

The city’s official name is Milano in Italian, but in English it is usually referred to as Milan. Throughout this guide, both terms refer to the same place.

Where is Milan, Italy?

Milan is located in northern Italy in the Po River Valley. Milan lies between the Ticino and Adda rivers, south of the Alps, in a geographical position that has helped shape its history for centuries. More on this below.

What is the population of Milan?

Milan has more than 1.4 million inhabitants within the city, and is at the heart of a much larger urban area, home to around 6 million people.

How big is Milan?

The official city area of Milan is 181.67 km2 (70.14 sq mi), making it almost exactly the same size as Washington, D.C., USA, and slightly larger than Manchester, UK.

Why visit Milan?

Milan combines major art, architecture, shopping, excellent transport links, important museums, and an energetic urban life that feels different from many other cities in Italy. If you want a big city experience in Italy that still offers historic and cultural appeal, Milan is well worth your time.

A brief history of Milan

Milan’s documented history stretches back more than two thousand years. The site was first settled by a Gaulish-Celtic tribe known as the Insubres around 600 BCE, making Milan an ancient city long before it became one of the most important urban centres in modern Italy.

If you already know Milan’s history or are pressed for time, click here to jump to the next section.

Ancient Roman Milan

Rome conquered the settlement in 222 BCE and Latinised it’s then Gaulish name of Medhelanon to Mediolanum and over time it became one of the most important Roman centres in northern Italy. Its geographical position in the Po River Valley made Mediolanum a strategic stronghold, and by the late 200s CE it’s importance had grown to such an extent that the emperor Diocletian made Mediolanum the capital of the Western Roman Empire, replacing Rome itself as the seat of the imperial government.

Traces of Roman Milan can still be seen today, including the Columns of San Lorenzo (pictured below) and remains of an imperial palace built by emperor Maximian (on Via Brisa).

wide view of columns of san lorenzo in milan
The Columns of San Lorenzo can be seen freely by following Corso di Porta Ticinese south from the centre of Milan

Post-western Roman rule and the birth of medieval Milan

After the end of Roman rule in western Europe, ending officially in 476 CE when emperor Romulus Augustulus was disposed by Gothic invaders, control of Milan passed between a series of powers. The city, like the rest of Italy initially came under Ostrogothic rule between the late 400s and early 500s, until it was reclaimed by eastern Roman emperor Justinian.

Eastern Rome’s control didn’t last long however, and the city was captured by the Lombards in 569, whose legacy live’s on the name of the region of which Milan is the capital; Lombardy (Lombardia in Italian).Later it became part of the Frankish empire under Charlemagne who conquered Milan in 774, where it official became part of the Holy Roman Empire.

Over the centuries that followed, Milan developed into a powerful medieval commune. Its growth was driven by trade, as a center of religion, and due to its strong strategic position in northern Italy.

porta ticinese with modern tram lines in foreground
Throughout Milan testaments to its medieval history are still standing such as the Porta Ticinese

Visconti and Sforza Milan

From 1395-1447, Milan was dominated by the Visconti family who ascended as the rulers of the city via proclimination from the then-Holy Roman Emperor (Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia). The Visconti line ended in 1447, after which the short-lived Ambrosian Republic was proclaimed. In 1450, Francesco Sforza took control of the city, beginning the Sforza era.

These ruling dynasties played a major role in making Milan one of the most powerful states on the Italian peninsula and it was during this era that work began on Milan’s now world-recognised cathedral in Piazza del Duomo.

Under the Sforza patronage Milan became a major Renaissance centre, competing with Florence, Rome and other key Italian cities to host renowned artists of the time. During this period Leonardo da Vinci was active in Milan, submitting designs for the Duomo, and creating what is now one the most famous paintings in the world: the Last Supper at the refectory of the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie.

da vinci's the last supper painting
I share further on this guide how to visit this masterpiece of Renaissance art

Foreign rule, between Austria and France

Milan’s importance meant it was repeatedly fought over during the Italian Wars (1494-1559). The Sforza were succeeded for a brief period by the French, who in turn were ousted by the Habsburg family from Austria. On the death of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, King of Austria and Spain, Milan and all other Italian processions of the Habsburgs fell under the control of the Spanish line of the family.

Spanish rule of Milan lasted for 150 years until 1700, after which time, and following more conflict between the major powers of Europe, control of Milan passed to the Austrian Habsburg family.

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Napoleon invaded Italy in 1796, and in 1805 crowned himself King of Italy at Milan’s Duomo. However, the French emperor’s control was short lived and in 1814 control of the city and Lombardy region were ceded back to Austria.

Austrian and French control and influence in the 18th and 19th centuries left a lasting mark on Milan’s administration, urban planning, and cultural life, and famous institutions such as the Teatro Scala were founded during this time.

arch of peace in milan
The Arch of Peace in the Parco Sempione was constructed in this period, built initially to celebrate Napoleon’s military success, and then, ironically, finished by the Austrian’s to mark (in part) his defeat

Italian unification

During the 1800s, desire for a united Italy grew across the peninsula, and Milan was no exception. In 1848 a popular uprising supported by the neighboring Kingdom of Sardinia-Piedmont ejected the Austrians from the city. Austrian rule returned just a few months later, but the movement towards Italian unification (known in Italian as ‘Il Risorgimento’) continued.

In the early 1860s, the Kingdom of Sardinia-Piedmont with its capital in nearby Turin, ruled by the Savoy family, in an alliance with France defeated Austria and incorporated Milan and Lombardy into a newly established Kingdom of Italy with wide support from the Milanese people.

The Risorgimento concluded in 1870 when the Savoys captured Rome, the last part of the Italian peninsula not under their control by then, proclaiming it the capital of a unified Italy. Milan’s position in the north of Italy between northern Europe and central and southern Italy meant it quickly became one of the new country’s most important centers of industry, commerce and fashion, building on it’s already established reputation for culture and religion.

Milan is a true metropolis, strong and fearless but welcoming, too. Little by little, I came to realise that I could become someone here.

Giorgio ArmaniItalian Fashion Designer

Milan in the 20th and 21st Centuries

During World War II, Milan was heavily bombed because of its industrial importance and strategic position in northern Italy. As one of the country’s main manufacturing and transport hubs, it was a frequent target for Allied air raids, and large parts of the city were damaged.

One of the most remarkable survival stories from this period concerns Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper in the refectory of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Although the surrounding building was badly damaged, the wall containing the painting had been protected with sandbags and scaffolding, allowing the artwork to survive.

vintage photo of santa maria della grazie in milan after world war II bombardment
It’s incredible to consider the destruction at Santa Maria della Grazie evident in this archive photo yet somehow the Last Supper survived

Other landmarks in the historic center, including the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and parts of the Duomo, were also damaged but later restored. The post-war decades coincided with the Italian Economic Miracle, when rapid growth strengthened Milan’s role as the country’s economic engine.

Today, modern Milan is Italy’s leading financial centre and one of Europe’s major hubs for design, media and technology. It is also widely recognised as a fashion capital, hosting global events such as Milan Fashion Week and Salone del Mobile.

Luxury shopping streets around Piazza del Duomo, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II reinforce its status as one of the world’s fashion capitals, while newer districts such as Porta Nuova highlight the city’s continued transformation in the 21st century.

view of milan duomo terrace spires with modern city buildings in the distance
Few other places in Italy combine history and modernity in the way that Milan does

Getting to and from Milan

Thanks to its position in northern Italy, Milan is one of the easiest cities in the country to reach. It has three airports, several major rail links, and direct road access from across Italy and neighbouring countries, including Switzerland and France.

Flying to and from Milan

Milan is served by three main airports: Malpensa, Linate, and Bergamo (Orio al Serio). All three handle international flights and provide connections into the city centre, though they serve slightly different roles depending on airline type, route, and convenience.

Bergamo Airport (Orio al Serio)

Located about 50 km east of Milan, Bergamo Airport (officially Milan Bergamo Airport – Orio al Serio) is widely used by low-cost carriers. As a result, it is one of the most common arrival points for budget and short-haul travellers flying into northern Italy.

Despite its distance from Milan, the airport is well connected to the city. Direct shuttle buses run frequently between the airport and Milan’s central station (Milano Centrale), with a typical journey time of around 45–60 minutes depending on traffic.

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Linate Airport

Linate Airport is the closest airport to the city centre, located only about 7 km from central Milan. Because of its proximity, it is often the most convenient airport if you are flying from elsewhere in Italy or from major European cities.

Linate primarily handles short-haul and domestic flights, and in recent years it has become even easier to reach the centre thanks to the M4 metro line, which connects the airport directly with central Milan in around 12 minutes.

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Malpensa Airport

Malpensa Airport is Milan’s main international airport and the primary gateway for long-haul flights to and from the city. It is located roughly 45 km northwest of Milan and is the busiest of the three airports.

The most convenient way to reach the city centre is via the Malpensa Express train, which connects the airport with Milano Centrale and Milano Cadorna stations in around 40–50 minutes.

For most long-distance travellers arriving from outside Europe, Malpensa will be the airport you use, while Linate and Bergamo tend to serve shorter European and internal Italian routes.

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Trains to and from Milan

Milan is one of Italy’s most important rail hubs. Milan’s central station, Milano Centrale, is the city’s main long-distance rail gateway and one of the grandest train stations in Europe.

About Milan’s central station

Milan’s central station is just outside the historic center and well connected to the rest of the city by public transport and taxis. For many visitors, it is the first impression of Milan, and while it is not in the heart of the city centre, it is within easy reach of the main sights, with an average journey time of 10-15 minutes depending on your chosen transit method.

Note that this a very large train station, and as such anyone coming through here should allow a little extra time to navigate the halls and platforms.

milano centrale train station facade
Opened officially in 1931, this impressive train station features a mix of architectural styles including Art Nouveau and Art Deco

From Milano Centrale you can travel directly to Turin, Bologna, Florence, Rome, Naples, Venice, Verona, and Lake Como via Italy’s efficient rail network, as well as international destinations in Switzerland and France.

Looking for somewhere to eat near Milano Centrale? My go-to spot is Osteria Papà Nicola located just a few minutes walk from the train station. Open from late morning until midnight, this restaurant is great for lunch, aperitivo, and dinner, with a large welcoming interior, efficient service and high quality menu choices. I especially like the space at the tables for suitcases – a small (borderline boring) detail, but appreciated when travelling with luggage!

Driving to and from Milan

Milan is fully integrated with the Italian autostrada (motorway/freeway) network and a series of interconnected ring roads, making it straightforward to reach by car from anywhere in this country or from neighbouring France and Switzerland. However, drivers should be aware of restrictions in the city centre:

ZTL (zona traffico limitato) and driving restrictions

The most important restriction for visitors is Area C, the congestion-charge limited traffic zone covering much of the historic center. If you are planning to drive into central Milan, you need to plan ahead and check the latest rules and vehicle entry conditions carefully here on the official website.

ztl traffic signs in Milan
Milan’s Area C ZTL is clearly sign posted and there is a zero-tolerance approach to contraventions

For the vast majority of visitors, especially those staying in the city center, I would not recommend driving into central areas unless there is a very specific reason to do so. Instead, park your car at a parking lot close to the ZTL (zona traffico limitato) – here are some top-rated options:

Where to stay in Milan

There is no single best answer as to where to stay in Milan, because it depends on your priorities and travel preferences. Some visitors want to be in the buzzing city centre near Piazza del Duomo and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Others may prefer a more local atmosphere in one neighbourhood slightly away from the busiest streets.

Our Recommendation

My favourite areas of Milan to stay in are Colonne and Ticinese areas because they offer a good balance between atmosphere and practicality. They are within walking distance of many major sights, but feel less hectic than the immediate core of central Milan. Accommodation prices are lower than the historic center (Cinque Vie, Duomo) areas, and you’ll find a mix of hotels, B&Bs and apartment options.

Other areas worth considering in my experience include the Navigli district and Brera neighborhood, but it might be that your trip to Milan would be improved by staying outside of the city altogether.

For a detailed overview of where to stay in Milan, featuring rundowns of the top parts of the city and options nearby the Lombard capital, take a look at my detailed guide here:

Getting around Milan – walking, public transportation and taxis

Milan is a big city, but the city centre and historic center are very manageable on foot. Many of the main sights in central Milano are within a short walk of one another (a maximum of 10-15 minutes apart), especially around Piazza del Duomo, the Royal Palace, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Teatro alla Scala, and the shopping streets around Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.

pink sunset skies over milan's canal district
Personally, I love exploring on foot. You can move at your own pace and often come across little shops, bars, or interesting sights that you might miss when travelling by taxi or public transport

That said, other key locations, such as Milan Centrale train station in the north of the city, and the bar-lined canals in the south (pictured above), are between 30-45 minutes from the historic heart of the city making it necessary to utilise public transport or taxi.

Metro, trams and buses

Milan has one of the best urban transport systems in Italy. The metro lines are extensive, the trams reliable (and historic), and buses cover the wider metropolitan area. Together, they make public transportation in Milan relatively straightforward for visitors.

The metro is especially useful if you are travelling from one side of the city to the other, heading to Linate Airport, visiting San Siro Stadium, or reaching neighbourhoods further from the historic centre.

Tickets in Milan are integrated across the entire public transport network and are managed by ATM (Azienda Trasporti Milanesi). A standard ticket allows you to use the metro, trams and buses within the central zone for 90 minutes, making it easy to combine different forms of transport during a single journey.

Visitors staying longer can also purchase 24-hour, 48-hour or multi-day passes, which often offer better value if you expect to move around the city frequently.

milan metro ticket machines and kiosk
Tickets can be purchased at metro stations, newsstands, ticket machines and increasingly via contactless payment directly at metro gates and on some trams and buses

Taxis and ride apps

Taxis are available but can be more useful for airport connections, late-night trips, or cross-city journeys that are less convenient by public transportation.

You’ll find taxi ranks at all the major points of interest in Milan, and Uber is active and reliable here. Personally I will generally take a taxi to get between my accommodation and Milano Centrale when visiting Milan. It makes the journey more comfortable and convenient than public transport after a day of travel. For a route between the Duomo/city center area and Milan centrale you can expect to pay between 15€-20€.

taxi rank with queued taxis outside milano centrale
Need a taxi on arrival at Milano Centrale train station? Exit the station to the right side where cars will be queuing

What to see and do – Top Attractions in Milan

Many visitors underestimate Milan. It may not attract the same numbers as Rome, Florence or Naples, but that does not mean it lacks major attractions. In fact, Milan combines some of Italy’s most important artistic treasures with some of its strongest shopping, dining and contemporary culture.

For historic sights and cultural institutions

If you only have limited time in Milan, I would focus on the city’s most important historic sights and cultural institutions first. Here are my top three sights to get you started:

Duomo di Milano and Piazza del Duomo – What to See

Milan’s cathedral is the city’s defining monument. Set on Piazza del Duomo, it dominates the heart of the city and is one of the most impressive Gothic churches in Europe. Even those who have seen many churches in Italy often stop in their tracks here, including myself the first time I saw it.

exterior wide view of the milan duomo from piazza
The scale, detail and setting make Italy’s biggest church truly unforgettable

Of course, you can admire this incredible structure and Italian architectural icon at any time of day and night by simply making your way to Piazza del Duomo.

However, anyone interested in history, architecture and/or religion, should take the time to visit the interior of the church as well as the Duomo’s terraces. That’s right, you can visit the roof of the Duomo and explore walkways designed to let you get up close and personal with Milan’s cathedral like few other monuments allow.

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Back on the ground, and inside the Duomo, you’ll find architectural designs and elements just as intricate as the famous exterior, including huge stained glass windows – a rare feature in Italian cathedrals, and a legacy of this structures’ influence from French and northern European architects.

Beyond the terraces, my personal highlight of any visit to Milan’s Duomo is exploring the archeological area under the church, which contains the structure remains of the churches that stood on this site prior to the duomo’s construction, as well as a paleochristian baptismal font dating back to Milan’s Roman period.

close up of stonework on the milan duomo terraces with sunbeam coming through
The best time of day to visit Milan’s Duomo is sunset when the light hits the local stone, causing a shift in colours which makes the architecture even more dramatic than it is already

Duomo and Piazza del Duomo – Practical Visit Information

To comfortably visit the Duomo interior fully, including the underground archeological site, and the breathtaking terraces you should allow 2-3 hours.

One practical note regarding the terraces; there is a lift/elevator part of the way up, but the upper levels are accessible only via stairs and ramps, which can make parts of the terraces inaccessible to those with mobility challenges.

Tickets can be purchased online via the official site and there are various combinations/packages available that also offer access to additional sites and museums (beyond the Duomo) such as the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, home to works by Raphael, Caravaggio and other famous artists.

Note that because this Milan’s main church and one of Italy’s most important religious locations, opening hours and access to the Duomo can vary around major holidays and for special events. Refer to the official website here for the latest information about opening hours.

Review the ticket options thoroughly to understand which option is best for you, or alternatively, booking a guided tour to learn about Milan’s Duomo from a local expert:

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Santa Maria delle Grazie and the Last Supper – Background

After the Duomo, Santa Maria delle Grazie is one of the most important churches in Milan, but for many visitors it is primarily associated with Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece, the Last Supper. Housed in the former refectory, this mural is one of the most famous works of art in the world.

The work was commissioned by Ludovico ‘The Bull’ Sforza at the end of the 1400s as part of renovations to the church and its refectory, and completed around 1498. Due to the experimental and innovative techniques used by Leonardo da Vinci to create this painting, it quickly started degrading, exacerbated by environmental conditions which were not optimal for the hosting of a delicate mural like the Last Supper.

Over the centuries, alterations to the art work have been made, as well as numerous restorations, the most recent completed in 1999. Unfortunately the mural continues to degrade, and it is only a matter of time before before it is lost forever. With this in mind, if you are on the fence about seeing the Last Supper, I recommend committing to a visit while it is still possible.

close up of jesus in da vinci's last supper
Leonardo da Vinci’s painting is not simply a famous image. It is one of the defining artworks of the Renaissance, and seeing it in person is a very different experience from seeing it reproduced online or in books

Santa Maria delle Grazie and the Last Supper – Practical Information

First and foremost, visit numbers are strictly controlled to preserve the art work, and booking in advance is essential. If seeing Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper matters to you, you should plan ahead well before your trip. Tickets are released every two months for the coming two month period, via the official website.

On my most recent visit to Milan I failed to book when the official tickets became available, and instead had to get a last-minute tour via GetYourGuide – this is another option at any point, but is generally much more expensive than a regular entrance ticket.

Viewings of the Last Supper are limited to 15 minutes, so allowing time to visit the rest of the refectory and the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie itself you should allow between 1 and 1.5 hours total.

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Sforza Castle – Introduction

Sforza Castle is one of the most important landmarks of Milan and a permanent, historical reminder of the city’s political power in the late medieval and Renaissance period when Milan really solidified its position as one of Italy’s key cities.

The current castle was built in the 15th century by the ruling Sforza family who expanded on an earlier fortification in the same location. Over the centuries the castle was expanded and at one time it was one of the largest citadels in Europe, a testament to the sometimes turbulent history of Milan.

The castle complex today contains several museums and large open areas, making it a flexible sight for different types of visitors from history lovers to families.

If you are short on time, you may simply want to see the exterior and combine it with a stroll through the adjoining Parco Sempione. If you have more time, the museums inside are worth visiting to better understand’s Milan’s fascinating history where you’ll find art collections, antiquity galleries and armouries.

exterior of sforza castle milan
Sforza Castle’s imposing structure has remained largely unchanged since the Renaissance period

Sforza Castle – Practical Visit Information

Housing several museums, it would be easy to spend a whole day here, and possibly not see everything. However, none of the individual museums are particularly big, so depending on your interests, you should allow around an hour per museum that you visit. For a complete list of the museums and current exhibitions, as well to book tickets, visit the official website here.

If you are looking just to see the castle’s impressive structure from the outside you should allow around 30 minutes to an hour to walk around the walls and through the main courtyards. There is no cost to do this (or need to reserve access), making it a great a activity option for anyone visiting Milan on a budget.

For Shopping

To understand Milan completely, you need to recognise that the city’s identity is not limited to churches, history and art. This is also a design capital, a fashion capital, and a place where retail, architecture and lifestyle combine to make this city truely unique when compared to other major Italian cities.

Milan Fashion Week and Salone del Mobile reinforce that reputation internationally, but even outside those events the city projects a polished, design-aware image. If you enjoy fashion, architecture (modern as well as classic and historical) or simply observing city life, Milan rewards slow wandering through areas such as the Brera and Porta Nuova neighbourhoods.

For shopping specifically, Piazza del Duomo is the perfect starting place where you’ll find along its northern edge the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, home to stores of some of Italy’s most iconic brands, and just a few steps away, the Rinascente department store with its array of high-end clothing, homeware and food and drink produce.

interior and ceiling of galleria vittorio emanuele II milan
Just walking through Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is an experience in itself, setting aside the shops and bars to appiciate the architecture

Beyond the historic center you’ll find the city is crammed with boutique stores everywhere you go; Milan’s legacy as a center of commerce makes it Italy’s ultimate shoppers paradise, best explored on foot, punctuated with stops for coffee, spritzes and/or gelato.

Beyond the city, you’ll find two large designer outlets with top fashion and homeware brands which further boost this part of Italy’s appeal to shoppers; Scalo Milano Outlet (around 30 minutes drive from the center of Milan) and Designer Outlet Serravalle (around an hour’s drive). These outlets are best reached by car or booked as an experience.

For food and wine lovers

Milan’s food and drink scene is just as strong as other parts of Italy more commonly associated with distinctive regional cuisines. Traditional Milanese and Lombard dishes tend to be hearty and indulgent, reflecting the region’s long history of prosperity. Butter, rice, slow-cooked meats and rich sauces feature heavily – quite different from the olive-oil-based cooking more typical of southern Italy.

For an introduction to Milanese and Lombard cuisine, be sure to try these classic dishes:

  • Risotto alla Milanese – This famous saffron risotto is one of Milan’s signature dishes. Arborio rice is slowly cooked in broth and finished with butter and Parmesan, creating a creamy texture and distinctive golden colour from saffron.
  • Cotoletta alla Milanese – A breaded veal cutlet, fried in butter until crisp on the outside and tender inside. Often compared to schnitzel, it is typically served simply with lemon or a light side.
  • Ossobuco – A slow-braised veal shank cooked with vegetables, wine and broth. The dish is traditionally finished with gremolata – a mix of lemon zest, garlic and parsley – and is often served with risotto alla milanese.
ossobuco and saffron risotto in a silver pan with red wine glass behind
Take it from me, don’t expect to do much after a big plate of Ossobuco

Milan sits at the centre of one of Italy’s great wine regions, so finding a good glass or bottle is not difficult in the city centre. If you want a more authentic and local experience, make your way to Enoteca Sorriso DiVino, a small wine war in the Colonne neighbourhood. Booking is highly recommended, as this place is popular with locals, and you will understand why if you visit. The wine selection is excellent, with bottles from the surrounding region, across Italy, and even from further afield. It is not especially common for wine bars in Italy to offer non-Italian wines, aside from some French bottles.

The owner, Michial, also offers small plates designed to complement the wines on offer and, of course, you can always buy a bottle or two to take back to your accommodation.

If you’re limited for time and wanting to try as many things as possible, make your way to Mercato Centrale in Milano Centrale train station. This food hall features almost endless options for eating and drinking, and like the equivilant locations in Turin, Rome and Florence, there is a focus on promoting local specialities.

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Eating and drinking in Milan

Building on the information about Milan and Lombard’s delicious cuisine I’d like to wrap up this guide with some further recommendations on where, and what to eat and drink in this city:

For breakfast

Unlike some other parts of Italy, Milan is not particularly known for offering anything especially distinctive for breakfast in traditional terms. The classic combination of pastry – most commonly referred to here as a brioche – coffee and juice is what you will see most locals enjoying in the morning.

Being a large city with many commuters, there are plenty of places everywhere to grab breakfast, and I have never had a bad experience. I would generally recommend simply going to the place closest to your accommodation, or wherever you are first headed in the morning, to keep things easy.

coffee and a piece of apple strudel
You will often find slightly more northern European breakfast options in Milan’s bars, such as apple strudel, in part due to the city’s location close to Swizerland and France

For lunch

Beyond Osteria Papà Nicola near Milan Centrale which is a great lunch spot if you are transiting through that area. I can also recommended San Maurì near the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana. This small but intimate bistro has a curated menu that changes according to the season, balancing traditional dishes with modern infusions. The interior is beautifully designed and makes for the perfect place to recharge on a big day of sightseeing and/or shopping.

For aperitivo

I already mentioned Enoteca Sorriso DiVino in the previous section as somewhere away from the crowds where you can enjoy a good glass of wine with thoughtfully paired small dishes at aperitivo.

However, there is another spot in Milan that I would be remiss not to mention, as it is almost as iconic as the city’s architectural landmarks. For a true Milanese aperitivo, make your way to Camparino in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

This historic bar has been purveying Campari here since 1915, the famous bitter liqueur that was invented in Milan. If I am in Milan, there is a strong chance you will find me here enjoying a spritz or Negroni with a view of the Duomo just across from the bar. Admittedly I am biased, as Campari is my all-time favourite alcoholic drink, but given the bar’s history and its connection to Milanese culture, stopping here at least once should be on any visitor’s list.

campari spritz and open laptop at camparino bar in milan
A large part of this guide was written ‘on location’ at Camparino

For dinner

For an authentic Milanese dinner and cozy setting make your way to the Brera neighbourhood where you’ll find Stendhal. This refined restaurant, just a few minutes from the Pineoteca Brera, offers the highest quality dishes and most extensive wine list I am yet to find in the city. The service is attentive and efficient, and where they are also open for lunch, it’s the perfect location for an indulgent Lombard meal.

International dining in Milan

Milan’s food and drink scene, while fundamentally Italian, is one of the most diverse in the whole country. In some cities and regions of Italy it can be very difficult to find good non-Italian food, but that is not the case here. The streets are full of international restaurants, and it is easy to find almost any cuisine from around the world in Milan.

Obviously I love Italian cuisine, but from time to time I enjoy something different. If that sounds like you, take a break from Italian food by heading to Bloomy 2 – 金源阁 for far Asian foods and/or Tyche for a taste of Greece and the Aegaen. Both are offer fantastic quality foods in friendly and efficient environments and make a welcome change.

close up of bao buns and ramen in a bowl
Some times you just need something a little different before indulging in more rich Milanese cuisine

Final thoughts on visiting Milan

Milan is not always the first city people think of when planning a trip to Italy, but that is part of what makes it so rewarding. It offers major art, architecture, shopping, food, culture and transport convenience, but it does so in a way that feels distinct from the usual Italian itinerary.

If you want to do Milan right, the key is not to treat it as a quick stop between destinations, and give it time. Understand its many personalities by walking its streets, move between the modern city centre, the historic center, and the more contemporary districts. Looking for more recommendations on visiting Milan and Lombardy, or somewhere else in Italy? Contact me here